Amli - Southern Norway

Southern Norway: Towns | Holidays | Attractions

Kragero, pearl of coastal towns
Author: Berit Haugen Keyes

This piece of summer heaven can be found on the southern coast of Norway, also labelled the Skagerak Riviera. Kragero is one of Norway’s favorite holiday destinations, but very few people outside the country have heard of it, much less considered a sun holiday there. In a wealthy country that takes their holidays seriously, it has never needed to attract foreign visitors.

The small town has one famous son, the painter Edvard Munch, creator of the Scream. “Many a sleepless night my thoughts and dreams go to Kragero. To my daily walks over the hill beyond Kragero. Up there the wind blew in from the sea. Behind me the fragrant pines, out there the waves breaking over the skerries…My regards to Kragero, the pearl of coastal towns”. This is what the painter had to say about the place that inspired many of his beautiful landscapes. It now attracts thousands of Norwegian holidaymakers during the warm, bright summer months.
Whenever I visit I stay nearby in a hytte, or summerhouse. All Norwegian families have a share in a summer cottage or mountain cabin; often they have been in the family for generations. This is where every Norwegian learns to worship the great outdoors, and to value old building traditions. Fine architecture is another reason to come here. The islands and fjords are dotted with simple, picturesque wooden houses; all in red, white or mustard yellow. They are preserved not so much through draconian building regulations (which do exist), but Norwegians’ pride in their heritage. Any change which threatens this architectural tradition is fiercely resisted. The houses can be admired on every tiny island you sail past, and in the town of Kragero itself. The old timber post and shipbuilding center is almost exactly as it was 100 years ago. Take a walk through the narrow streets and along the buzzing harbour. The old, traditional wooden boats moored here reflect the passion to preserve, as well as the reliance on them as modes of transport. These boats are in everyday use throughout the summer. The busy harbour also has its share of brand new yachts in which the rich can display their wealth, and the rest of us only envy from afar, much like on any other Riviera.

Most summerhouses come with a boat; mine included. And the best way to explore this area really is on the water. In front of Kragero lie around 500 islands and skerries. As your boat sails slowly through a maze of fjords, channels and small sounds, you have a great opportunity to appreciate both the scenery and the unique architecture. Many of the islands are also uninhabited. This is where you stop to soak up the sunshine and swim in the crystal clear, surprisingly warm water. You can have your own island and your own bit of ocean. There are few sandy beaches, but among the smooth sea washed rocks are coves where children can catch crabs and play Desert Island.
There is a constant buzz on the water which continues throughout the long, warm evenings. During June and July it hardly gets dark at all, and Norwegians do not venture inside if they can help it. Barbecues follow fishing in the early evening, and this is usually where you get to know your neighbours. Make sure you tell them what a beautiful spot this is; once you have shown your appreciation they will be friendly and helpful.

The town of Kragero itself is busy from early morning till late at night. Every holidaymaker seems to drop in daily for supplies, or simply to stroll along the streets and have cake and coffee in the famous traditional bakeries. One of them has been here since the turn of the century, and my uncle assured me the selection of cakes has not changed much since he came here first in 1947. Shopping is also a pleasure. Fresh fish, the best shellfish in the world and locally produced vegetables can be bought around the harbour. It is not as expensive as you might expect and the quality is second to none.

Island hopping by ferry and bicycle is a great alternative if you do not have your own boat. The largest of the islands is Jomfruland, which is also the furthest from the mainland. A magical oak forest, carpeted in flowers, is the center of a more varied, lusher and greener landscape. The island also has some very fine beaches. It is great for bird watching, with more than seventy species recorded. Another feature of Jomfruland are the tall white lighthouses, landmarks for people and ships living and travelling along this coastline.

Sun in this part of Europe is no longer prohibitively expensive. With the rise of prices in Ireland, the cost of house rentals, food and transport now compares favourably. The price of eating and drinking in restaurants is still ridiculous, so don’t - just copy the Norwegians, buy simple food and eat it outside. Ryanair now flies from Stansted to what they call Oslo – which turns out to be 60 miles south of the capital. However it is only 40 miles from Kragero, so your own island in the sun is definitely within reach.